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How did you get into jewellery auctioneering?
Denise: I began my jewellery career in retail in 1971, where I gained my gemmological qualifications. I’ve worked in auctions for over 30 years, with 13 of these at Gildings. Penelope: I started working at Gildings seven years ago. I studied for my gemmological qualifications here, and I bring my love of historical research to the role. What items feature at the jewellery, watches and accessories auctions? Denise: As you’d expect, we sell lots of inherited antique jewellery. Often people will keep a few pieces for sentimental value, and sell the rest – something that needs to be handled sensitively. We also offer a lot of fantastic costume jewellery from the pre and post-war eras. Modern jewellery is also very popular, including Scandinavian brands like Georg Jensen. What are the benefits of selling jewellery and watches at auction? Denise: We take time to discuss our clients’ items with them in detail in our private valuation space, and there’s never any pressure to sell. As well as our valuation expertise, we have access to a global network of online buyers. Prices are currently very buoyant and our auctions have a very high sale rate. Penelope: Every item has a story and sometimes we can unearth an incredible tale. From a fan with connections to New York high society, to a long-lost brooch with links to Victorian Gothic Revival heritage, to a Morris & Co medal which is now in the V&A. I’ve been able to find out some amazing facts about our clients’ consignments. What are the advantages of buying at an auction? Denise: Value for money is clearly a big one, but when it comes to antique jewellery it’s not only possible to find something unique, there is often the chance to acquire the genuinely handmade craftsmanship that is largely lost on the modern high street. There is also the sustainability aspect, and the satisfaction that comes with knowing you are giving a new lease of life to something that was treasured by someone else. Also, you can choose whether to come into the saleroom or bid online at home. Any advice for auction first-timers? Denise: Give it a try! Buying at auction is a very safe process and we’ll hold your hand throughout the experience. We’re very happy for you to browse on our viewing days or to show you items and make suggestions. Also, don’t wait until an auction comes up to try and find the special something you’re looking for. Regularly browsing of the catalogues and sale results will give you a good idea of what to expect. All the lots in the auctions have detailed listings, but we also spend a lot of time doing condition reports for people who can’t make it in to see us, as our buyers come from far and wide. What trends are you expecting in 2026? Denise: With precious metal prices hitting sky high levels, we’re seeing great demand – with our most recent sale needing to be spread over two days. Designer jewellery from names like Cartier, Bulgari, Tiffany and modern Fabergé are currently very popular. In fact, designer names in general are increasingly coveted with accessories like Chanel handbags and Hermès scarves. When it comes to watches, sporty gentlemen’s wristwatches from brands like Rolex and Breitling are sought after, as well as smaller Art Deco style watches and military watches. Pocket watches are also very collectable, so now is a great time to sell them. What’s your favourite item you’ve ever sold at auction? Denise: In 2019, we sold a fabulous selection of Fabergé jewellery with connections to Romanov Russia, which was a real highlight. Penelope: Sometimes it’s just about a moment in the saleroom. One of my favourite memories is of a husband and wife who came in to bid on a diamond solitaire ring. They bowed out, but at the last moment the husband put his hand up and secured it. They were both thrilled! |
Issue 28
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